Eastern Algarve
Castro Marim
At Castro Marim there are two huge castles to explore, spreading across the two hills that rise above the salt flats either side of this fishing town. For many centuries it was a place of key strategic importance because of it's location overlooking the broad estuary of the Guadiana River, a frontier between warring factions at least since Roman times.
The main castle, north of the town, built in 1319, has a rampart walk which allows visitors to walk round the castle, with views down to the fishermen's houses below, and the acres of salt pans, many of them in use since pre-Roman times. Also within the castle walls are the offices of the Castro Marim Nature Reserve, from where walk leaflets are available. The Sao Sebastiao fortress on the opposite hill, dates from the 17th century and is part of a much bigger complex of defensive walls that survive only in parts around the town.
Today, the two countries have abolished their common border and the modern suspension bridge, which crosses the river, carries the IPl motorway, 2km northeast of the town.
Tavira
If you want to escape the 'modern' resorts, Tavira's architecture provides a pleasant surprise. It is probably the most elegant of the Algarvian towns.
Often described as the 'Algarvian Rome', and more fancifully 'the Venice of Algarve', Tavira stands on two hills on either side of the River Gilao, the two sides of the town being linked by a seven-arch bridge.
Tavira is known as the Town of Churches, since there are a remarkable 22 churches and other places of worship lying within its boundaries.
Olhão
Olhão is, along with Portimao, the biggest of the Algarve's fishing ports. The fishmarket along the seafront, has now been modernised to meet EU regulations, but it has lost none of it's vital character. Equally colourful is the fruit and vegetable market, it's stalls piled high with dried figs, almonds, honey, herbs and local cheeses, as well as fresh fruits. Opposite the seafront promenade, Olhao divides into two distinct districts. To the east is a dense warren of narow, cobbled alleys where the houses are distinctly North African in style - cube shaped with undecorated facades. By contrast, the west part of town has some of the Algarve's most attractive and ornate buildings. Shops and cafes line the pedestrianised Rua do Comercio which leads from the church to the seafront.
Two islands in the Ria Formosa Nature Reserve are easily accessible by boat from Olhao: Ilha do Armona and Ilha do Culatra. Both have lovely sandy beaches, and except in peak season, are quiet and relaxing islands with few inhabitants.
Monte Gordo
Montegordo has one of the Algarve's finest beaches - a vast broad sweep of fine golden sand. Numerous seasonal seafood restaurants sit along the sands, offering fresh fish provided by the local fishermen. The resort has a wide, cafe lined avenue facing the sea, and it makes a pleasant place to wander, do a spot of shopping and generally take life easy.
Central Algarve
Vilamoura
Vilamoura has seen a steady transformation and growth, and this town now includes a huge new marina with berthing for over 600 craft.
Of course, Vilamoura lies at the heart of the Golfing country, with some of the worlds best golf courses being situated there, but there are also pleasant beaches, dramatic cliff top walks and all manner of water sports.
Albufeira
Albufeira is the tourist capital of the Algarve. Located in the centre of the Algarve, it has a population of approximately 40,000 residents. The cliff lined coast with 23 beaches of Mediterranean climate, teamed with its pulsating nightlife, attract tourists in their thousands during the hot summer months. Their days are spent soaking up the hot Algarve sun before treating themselves to the many restaurants, bars and clubs that the town has to offer once night has fallen.
Albufeira was once a small fishing village, but the Great Earthquake of 1755 saw most of the old town destroyed, including its castle, but some of the old charm still remains along the narrow back streets.
Faro
Faro is the capital of the Algarve and is the largest, busiest and one of the oldest of the region's towns. In the centre there is a quiet walled city of immense historic character, as well as a lively shopping area with plenty of pavement cafes.
The city has both Arab and Roman ruins but most of the present attractive older buildings were constructed after the disastrous earthquake of both 1755 and 1532. Particularly attractive about Faro is the old part of the city still surrounded by the Roman walls which date back to the 9th Century. Inside a spacious open square that was once the site of the Roman Forum is a 13th Century Cathedral that faces the 18th Century Episcopal palace.
An interesting building is the neighbouring 16th Century Convent that is now turned into the home of the city's archaeological museum. Within it is a section devoted to the Arab occupation.
The "golden" church of Nossa Senhora do Carmois is claimed to be the best example of gold-leaf woodwork in southern Portugal. It also contains the macabre spectacle of a chapel lined with the bones from over 1200 monks!
Next to the small boat basin bordering the Praça de Dom Francisco Gomes is a small Naval Museum composed of scale model boats and galleons showing the maritime history of the coast. Much of the city is now composed of apartments and there are many attractive shops and a particularly artistic theatre.
Faro is also the home of the Ria Formosa lagoon, a nature reserve of over 17.000 hectares and a stopping place for hundreds of different birds during the spring and autumn migratory periods.
Quarteira
Formerly a fishing village, and one of the first resorts to be developed in the Algarve, Quarteira has now officially been declared a city. It has an exceptionally long seafront promenade and a long sandy beach, lined with shops, bars and restaurants. In the old quarter, there is a lively fish and produce market every day, and the outdoor gypsy market, held on Wednesdays, is one of the best and biggest in the region.
Early in the mornings, it is quite a sight to see the multitude of fishermen bringing in the daily catch - a riot of colour and noise.
Loule
Loule is a rural administrative and active market town with some remains of a castle dating back to the 12th Century. The Arab castle has been virtually destroyed leaving some walls still standing that are now surrounded by modern buildings. Like most other towns in the Algarve, most of the older potentially interesting buildings have been destroyed in the earthquake that occurred in 1755.
The town of Loule, consisting of some 20,000 residents, is mainly concerned with producing souvenir products made out of copperware, leather, cane and wood, to service the tourist industry. The weekly Fair attracts tourists from all along the Algarve. Due to the demands of tourism, this town has blossomed in size. An important event is the annual Carnival held in February that is considered to be one of the best in Portugal. In the town there is a Museum that is devoted to the local industry of dried fruits and it is interesting to see how these products are prepared for the public.
To the west of the town is a hilltop Church that is built on the site of a 16th Century chapel. This is the destination of an annual religious procession that requires some physical effort on the part of the bearers of the church's religious shrines.
Western Algarve
Portimao
Portimao is one of the Algarve's main fishing ports. Portimao was one of the towns to suffer most from the earthquake of 1755, consequently there are almost no historical sites or buildings. However if you head inland from the harbour make a visit to Largo 1 de Dezembro. This is a park with benches of blue and white tiles depicting key events in Portugese history.
It was named lit December 1640 to comemorate Portugal's independence from Spain. The adjacent town hall is a fine 18th century palace, once home to the viscounts of Sivar. Another place to visit is the Jesuit Igreja do Colegio, on Praca do Republica. This profusely decorated church is the largest in the Algarve.
Today, Portimao is a commercial and industrial centre of great importance connected with fishing and industry.
Lagos
Lagos is a major port and historically one of the region's most interesting cities. It has style, with its sleek boats, designer boutiques and paved promenades. Prince Henry the Navigator made Lagos his headquarters but his palace was lost forever in the Great Earthquake of 1755.
Essentially now an important tourist town there are still many architectural signs of its ancient past, even a building dating originally back to around 1445 which is recorded as being Europe's first building used as a slave market. The walls of the town in the most part remain after sections were restored. Attached to the famous 17th Century "gold" church of Santo António there is a small museum of regional items, some of which are quite odd!
Fabulous beaches and coves, an historic town with great shopping in its quiet cobbled back streets combine to make the town one of the most sought after resorts on the coast.
Sagres
If you manage to head out towards the far western tip of the Algarve, you won't be able to miss Sagres - the most unmistakable landmark being Ponta de Sagres, the fortress of Henry the Navigator.
It's a foreboding, somewhat daunting place, where one can imagine the great Henry gathering the greatest minds of the day behind closed doors - astronomers, mariners and shipbuilders.
The own of Sagres, however, has some pleasant laid-back cafes and restaurants, where you can relax and idle the day away in the cooler breezes of the west.